The Evolution of Semla Buns

In recent years, a delightful revolution has taken place with one of Sweden’s most iconic pastries. Unique variations on the traditional Swedish semla have surprised and delighted pastry lovers around the world who go looking for a tasty treat for their next fika. Of course, you can still find traditional semlor readily available in Swedish bakeries—and at ASI’s FIKA Café through Easter weekend—but variations like chocolate and strawberry are becoming more and more common thanks to a wave of creativity. 

To shed light on the essence of semlor and the inspiration behind the recent surge in inventive flavors, ASI spoke with Richard Tellstrom, Swedish food historian and expert on these delectable treats and their rich history. 

Let’s get started with the basics: what is a semla? 

“These days, a semlor has three components: a cardamom bun, almond paste, and whipped cream,” Richard explains. In the 1800’s, semlor were soaked and served in hot milk. The addition of whipped cream, a development from the early 1900s, has since become an integral part of the modern semlor. 

When asked about what constitutes a truly great semla, Richard’s response is concise yet insightful: “Not so big and with a distinct flavor of almond and cardamom.” It’s clear that, for him, the key lies in balance, and he appreciates the fundamentals.  

Over the last few years in Sweden, different flavors of semlor have come and gone, like pistachio, cloudberry, and even Nutella. Richard attributes this creative surge to food culture being heavily influenced in the last 30 years by postmodern trends, where classic expressions are intertwined with new and often unexpected elements.  

While new variations usually have short-lived popularity, Richard’s noticed they’re quickly replaced by the next season’s creative offerings. Social media is always abuzz with the next big thing, and there are constant demands from customers for new varieties and experiments. But for food historian Richard, nothing beats the classic: “I use a recipe from the 1700s with also caraway and succade. Delicious, but of course, very old-fashioned.” 

Want to read more about this pastry? ASI’s blog has more information on semla history.  

About Richard Tellstrom

Richard Tellström is an associate professor of culinary arts at Stockholm University and one of the foremost experts on food culture and meal history. He has worked with various TV shows and films, been a summer presenter on Sweden’s P1 radio show and written and participated in several books about the Swedish food culture. Richard had been a frequent collaborator with ASI. The museum welcomed him for an extended visit as he researched Minnesota’s Nordic food traditions as preserved in cookbooks and documents within ASI’s library and archives.